Tiny-Home Insurance: What Actually Covers a House on Wheels
A tiny home refuses to sit in any one insurance box. It looks like a house, tows like a trailer, and parks like a mobile home, so carriers keep filing it under a category that was written for something else. Which policy you actually qualify for depends less on what the home is and more on how it was certified when it was built. That one detail decides whether a claim pays out like a totaled RV, a damaged manufactured home, or a rebuilt house, and it is worth settling before you request a single quote.
The three insurance categories a tiny home can land in
Every tiny home insurance conversation starts by sorting your build into one of three buckets. Each is underwritten differently, with different limits and different rules about what a claim actually pays.
- Recreational vehicle or park model RV. A tiny house on wheels that stays road legal and carries the right factory certification. Losses are usually handled like an RV or travel trailer, often on an actual cash value basis that subtracts depreciation.
- Manufactured or mobile home. A factory produced unit set on a lot or a foundation and insured through a manufactured home program built for that market.
- Permanent dwelling. A tiny house constructed to residential building code and permanently sited, which can qualify for a homeowner style policy with replacement value.
The gap between these is not cosmetic. An actual cash value RV settlement on a five year old build can pay a fraction of what it costs to replace, while a dwelling policy aims to rebuild the home. Knowing your bucket tells you which number to fight for when a loss happens.
Certification is the thing carriers actually check
Builders love to talk about craftsmanship. Insurers look for a certification label. For a tiny house on wheels, the target is park model RV (PMRV) status. To be insured that way, your home generally needs a gross trailer area not exceeding 400 square feet in its set up mode (or, if it is under 320 square feet, to require a special highway movement permit) and a manufacturer certification that it complies with the ANSI A119.5 standard.
That label is not something a builder buys once and forgets. RVIA runs an inspection program for its member manufacturers in which staff inspectors make unannounced factory visits roughly every eight weeks to verify continued compliance with the NFPA 1192 and ANSI A119.5 standards that insurers rely on for certification. The practical takeaway: a home from a certified member factory carries paperwork a carrier already trusts, and a home without it starts every conversation at a disadvantage.
If you are aiming for a permanent dwelling policy instead, the rulebook changes. IRC Appendix Q is the section of residential code written for small homes, and it defines a tiny house as 400 square feet or less of floor area, excluding lofts. The same appendix sets the physical minimums an inspector will actually measure, including a finished ceiling height of not less than 6 feet 8 inches in habitable rooms and hallways, with bathrooms, toilet rooms, and kitchens allowed down to 6 feet 4 inches. Miss those and the home may not pass as a code compliant dwelling, which closes the door on the policy that pays the most.
What the policies actually pay
Once you know your category, the coverage numbers get concrete. Two programs show the range from one end to the other.
Foremost’s manufactured and tiny home program is one of the more common routes. Its dwelling coverage for a tiny house maxes out at $150,000, and it will only write a home that has been certified by NOAH or RVIA. That certification requirement is exactly why factory built homes slide in easily and self built ones often cannot.
For a larger home, or one you built yourself, a specialized policy through Strategic Insurance Agency reaches higher. It can provide up to $250,000 in dwelling coverage, $25,000 in personal property coverage, and as much as $1 million in personal liability protection, and it does not require NOAH or RVIA certification, which is what finally lets a DIY build get insured at all.
A useful rule: if your home is factory certified, shop the manufactured home and RV programs first for the better rate. If it is self built or oversized, start with a specialized tiny house policy that does not demand a certification you were never going to get.
A claim scenario that shows why the category matters
Picture a 300 square foot tiny house on wheels that a couple built themselves over two winters. It is beautiful and solid, but because they built it, no factory ever certified it to ANSI A119.5, so RVIA and NOAH labels are off the table. When they called an RV insurer, the quote came back as actual cash value on an uncertified trailer, and a standard tiny home program declined them outright for lack of certification.
They ended up with a specialized policy through Strategic, which does not require certification, at $180,000 in dwelling coverage plus $25,000 in personal property. A year later a kitchen fire caused roughly $45,000 in structural and cabinet damage. Because the loss was handled as a dwelling claim against a $180,000 limit rather than a depreciated trailer settlement, the payout covered the rebuild, and the ruined contents fell under the personal property coverage. Had they been stuck on the RV style actual cash value quote, the same fire on a home a few years old could have paid out a small fraction of the repair cost. The category, not the craftsmanship, decided the check.
What to do when a claim is denied or underpaid
Denials in this space almost always trace back to a mismatch between how the home was certified and how the policy was written. If a claim is refused or the offer lands far below the repair cost, work through it in order:
- Read the denial letter for the exact reason. A certification or occupancy mismatch (an RV policy on a home someone lives in full time, for example) is the usual culprit, and it points straight at the fix.
- Pull your own documentation: the build invoices, any certification labels, and photos taken before the loss. This is what supports a replacement cost argument instead of a depreciated one.
- Ask the carrier for the basis of its number in writing, then get an independent adjuster or contractor estimate to compare against it.
- If the gap holds, file a complaint with your state insurance commissioner, who oversees claim disputes and can force a written response.
If the root problem is that your home was insured under the wrong category all along, the durable fix is to switch programs: move to one that matches your certification status before the next loss, not after it.
Related guides
Frequently asked questions
Can I insure a tiny house I built myself?
Yes, but your options narrow. Programs that require NOAH or RVIA certification, including Foremost’s, will decline a self built home because no factory ever certified it. Specialized policies such as the one through Strategic Insurance Agency exist precisely for this case and do not require that certification, so a DIY build can be covered with up to $250,000 in dwelling value.
Does living in my tiny home full time change the coverage?
Often, yes. Many RV and travel trailer policies assume recreational, part time use and either exclude or sharply limit full time occupancy. If you live in the home year round, you generally need a policy written for a dwelling, or an RV policy with a full time occupancy endorsement added. Insuring a primary residence under a purely recreational policy is a common reason claims get denied after the fact.
Why does 400 square feet keep coming up?
Because two separate rulebooks use it as a line. The ANSI A119.5 park model RV standard caps a certified unit at 400 square feet in set up mode, and IRC Appendix Q defines a code tiny house as 400 square feet or less, excluding lofts. Crossing that number can push your home into a different code, a different inspection, and a different insurance category, so it is worth knowing exactly where you sit relative to it.